Have you ever wondered why some leather lasts for months… and others for years?

There’s a short answer and a long one. But the long answer is better.

At its core, leather is simple. It’s animal skin that’s been tanned. But what happens after the tanning process has a massive impact on how it looks, feels, costs, and most importantly how long it lasts.

If you want a deep dive into tanning methods, we’ve written about that here.

What is Vegetable Tanned Leather

The Layers of Cowhide

Image from Shoe Tree Project

A cowhide has layers. The outermost surface (closest to the hair) is the grain, and beneath that is the corium, where the real strength comes from.

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Full Grain Leather

This is the real deal. The grain is left completely intact after tanning, no sanding, no corrections. You get the full surface of the hide, imperfections and all. Only high-quality hides are used for this, because there’s nothing to hide. A top-tier piece of leather. It’s strong, breathable, and ages beautifully.

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Top Grain/Corrected Grain Leather

Corrected grain leather has had some of the surface lightly sanded to smooth out inconsistencies. It doesn’t weaken the leather. It’s done purely for a cleaner, more uniform look. This gives you that clean finish while still being high-quality and durable.

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Genuine / Split Leather

This is where the marketing term “genuine leather” is used. It sounds good, but it usually refers to the lower layers of the hide after it’s been split. It doesn’t have the more desirable grain surface, it also lacks strength and character. Manufacturers often emboss or coat it to look like full grain, but it’s not the same.

It won’t wear as well, it’s more likely to crack or tear, and over time, it just doesn’t hold up.

PVC / Faux / Bonded Leather

This stuff isn’t really leather. It’s leather scraps that are ground up, glued to a plastic backing, and embossed to look like the real thing. It’s cheap, weak, and destined for landfill.

You’ll find it on budget belts, furniture, and mass-produced goods. It looks fine at first, then peels, cracks, and falls apart.

What We Use at JCM Leather

We use full grain leathers only, specifically from Badalassi Carlo (Italy), Hermann Oak (USA) and Packers Leather (Australia). Our goal is simple: to give you gear that’s made to last and look better the more you use it.

If you want to see the difference for yourself.